(My) Cafe Life

Listening to: Sara Jackson Holman – When you dream (Kind of like a Feist and Norah Jones)

Essentially, I spend ample time (outside of Ramadan) at a specific cafe in town, hanging out, shooting the proverbial S%&# and just kicking it (by kicking it I mean, trying to understand what is being discussed.)

I really have no idea when it became more of a habit, then an occasional “pop-in.” My friend, and cafe owner, Driss, is a fantastic older gentleman. I wish I could show you all to Driss, have you meet and interact with this man. I will do my best to describe Driss for you now: Picture a man, roughly of 55-60 years old (yet looks 65-70,) big belly, slight waddle to his walk (call it “slight limp” or “slight pimp” or “duck walk”,) bottom row of teeth barely intact, and going fast (recently he pulled one of his own teeth I think that was infected… and his tops have been gone I assume for a bit.) Driss most always has a smile on his face, and laughs and makes jokes. The picture of “Cheers” bartenders comes into mind, and if Driss’ establishment were in fact a local watering hole, it would be all too fantastic. Driss is certainly one I consider a “straight shooter”, “tell you how it is” kind of guy.

Driss is a stand up guy, a devout Muslim (prays five times a day, when at work, behind the counter), doesnt smoke or drink. The most shameful thing Driss has is a picture of a young beautiful women, taken from some magazine or similar. BUT, this young women has clothes on, a tank top and pants. It is hilarious, because when I mention it or ask how she is doing today (she has a name as well) Driss gets slightly embarrassed, and chuckles.

Driss has as much hospitality from a Moroccan as you will come across (Which is A LOT!!) He always refuses payment for a cup or pot of tea, and I resort to hiding the money under glasses or dropping it in his pocket and quickly leaving. He gives me eggs sometimes as well. All wrapped up in this warmth is a combination of a grandpa (which he is, of course), father, and friend. Probably more the former than the latter two though.

Driss’ cafe is what I call a “dive” establishment. Benches and tables that are wood planks, and 20 or so plastic green and brown lawn chairs decorate the place, which is painted pink (yes… Its awesome like that.) Lighting is a combination of long fluorescent tubes, and a few stray light bulb, one of which has a small mini-chandelier decorating it. Other items include an old beat up TV circa 1975 and a Fridge circa 1960 (that is generous I think.) Recently the fridge had to be re-filled with Freon gas… which might be illegal in most places now. There is one tall counter, which behind it sits Driss, making pot after pot of tea, and getting soda for the guys. Water is served in old school bottles of “Dry Gin.” certainly bought at some market way back when. He also carries cigarettes, which per usual, are sold for 1DH a piece (.12 $), the going rate, and how the typical man buys them (packs are not usually bought.)

Now that I have described Driss and his Cafe, the people contained in this place are equally great. It is not a “hip” establishment, no big flat-screen TVs or even COFFEE. Tea, Soda only. The men in this cafe are older, I would say hover between 40 and above, from the more frequenting clientele. Most of the men are from the outer villages originally, and now are retired and live in my village. I honestly don’t know a lot about their former professions, some were soldiers (stories of sharing Marlboro cigarettes with US Soldiers are frequent,) others likely masons/home builders, or just free-lance handymen AKA independent contractor (a very common trade, as work is sparse.)

Since work is slim, and most of the men are past working age (you technically have to put 10-15 years in as a soldier and then you get a paycheck for LIFE from the government… so that is 35-40 years old,) people play cards to pass the time.

These are not your typical deck of cards. These are Baraja cards, which hold 40 cards, with 4 cards each number 1-7 and 10-12. Why 8 and 9 are missing I have no idea!!! They hail from Spain, and thus likely were introduced during the Spanish or Portugese occupations in the North, and made their way further south. They have numbers and pictures, as you can see from the link to Wikipedia.

Two games are usually played, One called “Rummy” and one called “Ronda.” I will not explain these games. Just how they are played. They can be played with 2 or 4 players, and “Ronda” is a partner game with 4 players. A fifth person in both games is the designated score-keeper (for reasons you will find out.)

I used to think that my father, and mother were brutal when playing cards. They taunt, and get a bit lively when one is winning/losing (to be honest my father probably ags on my mom, sorry dad.) No more do I have this thought, and I will likely never play cards the same myself.

When placing a card, people slam them down, taunting the opposing player to take it or just being more macho than the other men. They smirk and snicker, and taunt each other. When a wrong move is made, people will yell at the player as if they most certainly know better, and this quickly escalates into a shouting match. Usually a small crowd of 3-5 people will watch the match as well. Score is kept with bottle-caps and small wood sticks and a buta-gas cap. The reason for the score-keeper, is that in many games, adults and kids will win at all costs, cheating their way along (we did a workshop, and played a game with the teachers, and even they cheated!) So the fifth guy is the “arbitrator” of sorts. I have not seen actual fights break out, usually people intervene when word violence hits the peak, and insults get hurled.

In terms of betting, money betting is prohibited (illegal I think, and certainly immoral… Driss would not allow this,) so people bet to pay for a liter of soda or pot of tea, which in the end will be drank by not only participants, but also observers of the game. Very typical of Moroccan sharing culture. Certainly I have been in cafes where betting is taking place, and also sports betting on futbol matches.

When people aren’t playing cards, drinking tea and soda, they are just sitting around talking about whatever. When I was a young lad, I used to go with my dad to Dunkin’ Donuts or McDonalds and sit with him while him and his friends (some retired, but most just hard “get down and dirty” working folks) would have coffee, eat some donuts, smoke cigarettes, and just shoot the shit. This is the exact same thing… and due to the my experiences as a youth I feel very comfortable in this situation (certainly I still remember all those guys and their stories… and just how they were characters, but all overall nice guys.) However, some of the time (person specific really) I have trouble understanding what they are talking about. I understand my typical villager just fine, but the accent the people from the mountain small villages, and older Tamazight speakers is intense. I also know I probably speak like a child… HA! Think of yourself trying to listen to a thick “Cajun” American accent. Almost incomprehensible. These guys are old, speak softly and “chew” their words, using old school pure Tamazight words in the process. It is fascinating really, and while it is difficult for me to understand, I do what I can, and I am certainly accepted by these folks. I firmly believe in the “Respect your elders” concept, and listening to what they have to say, at the very least, even if it is “off their rocker” or ignorant. I feel comfortable as well, knowing that these guys will help me out.

When I do have conversation, it is usually about some random topic about the US, like politics, religion, or just asking me if they can come to the US as well.

For example, yesterday we had a conversation about beggars. A guy passed us asking for money, and we all said “no.” I was then asked if we have beggars in the US. I said yes, and they asked if they had houses just as some beggars in Morocco do (and just act like a homeless person). I said sometimes, and sometimes they are a bit off in the head. They were somewhat perplexed, as this (along with many of the things we discuss) is against what they know, see, and hear about the US. I simply explained that homeless people are essentially the same in the US as Morocco. Sometimes truly homeless, sometimes having psychological issues, sometimes substance issues, and sometimes having an actual home to live. We have also had conversations about “welfare,” and people asking if you are not employed will the government take care of you. Essentially I tried to explain unemployment and welfare and medicaid simply. Here in Morocco, the government DOES take care of you if you are not working, no matter what… (Which in the end hurts people here overall due to “hand-out” learned helplessness, and okays laziness. BUT, otherwise these people would be much poorer than they already are, and likely they would be suffering.)

In the end, I wish that there was some young Moroccan in my place in America, talking to the older folks, many (i feel confident is saying “many”) who have all sorts of misconceptions and ignorance about life over here as folks here have about the US (I think of my own grandfather, and the difference of my generation versus his.) I wont go on any further, but you get my drift yeah???

This is my cafe, and when I leave, it will be one of the places I miss the most. Just sitting and having conversation in a “dive-like” place, sitting outside and watching people go by, shooting the proverbial shit.

Hopefully this post did not drag… BUT if you made it all the way to the bottom, you get a funny bonus story… courtesy of another PCV and his mountain village.

BONUS STORY: One day, my friend went up to his village, and was hanging out with a few people, talking. They asked him a question about the stars or the moon, I can’t remember. Essentially, what they were getting at was “Are there still people up there??” (“Up there” being the moon.) These folks were asking if there were still people on the moon! It is a crazy world we live in, and while for you and I back in the US to be like “wow, people still think that!”… it is just another example of how misconceptions and word of mouth news gets around.